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Riding the Waves: My Story

Junichiro Tanizaki

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Published in Jane Mcdonald

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I've always been drawn to the water. As a child, I would spend hours swimming in the pool or playing in the ocean. When I was 10 years old, I started taking surfing lessons. I was immediately hooked. I loved the feeling of being on the board, gliding across the waves. Surfing gave me a sense of freedom and exhilaration that I couldn't find anywhere else.

Riding the Waves: My Story

by Jane McDonald

4.7 out of 5

Language	:	English
File size	:	16273 KB
Text-to-Speech	:	Enabled
Screen Reader	:	Supported
Enhanced typesetting	:	Enabled
Word Wise	:	Enabled
Print length	:	311 pages

I continued to surf throughout my teenage years. I competed in local competitions and even won a few awards. But it wasn't until I was in college that I realized surfing could be more than just a hobby. I started to travel to different surf spots around the world and met other surfers who shared my passion for the sport. Surfing became a way for me to connect with people from all walks of life.

After graduating from college, I decided to pursue surfing full-time. I moved to Hawaii and started working as a surf instructor. I also started competing in professional surf competitions. I was fortunate enough to have some success on the competitive circuit, but what I enjoyed most was sharing my love of surfing with others.

I've been surfing for over 20 years now, and it's still my favorite thing to do. Surfing has taught me so much about myself and about life. It's taught me the importance of perseverance, resilience, and gratitude. It's also taught me the power of nature and the importance of giving back to the community.

Here are some of the lessons I've learned from surfing:

Perseverance: Surfing is a challenging sport. It takes time and practice to learn how to surf well. There will be times when you get frustrated, but it's important to keep practicing. If you never give up, you will eventually achieve your goals.
Resilience: Surfing is a humbling sport. There will be times when you fall off your board and get wiped out by a wave. But it's important to get back up and try again. The more you fall, the stronger you will become.
Gratitude: Surfing is a gift. It's a way to connect with nature and experience the beauty of the ocean. I am grateful for the opportunity to surf and I try to give back to the community by teaching surfing lessons and volunteering with environmental organizations.

If you're interested in learning how to surf, here are a few tips:

Start with a lesson: Taking a surf lesson is the best way to learn the basics of surfing. A qualified surf instructor can teach you how to paddle, pop up, and surf safely.
Practice regularly: The more you practice, the better you will become at surfing. Try to surf at least once a week, even if it's just for an hour or two.
Be patient: Learning to surf takes time and practice. Don't get discouraged if you don't progress as quickly as you'd like. Just keep practicing and you will eventually achieve your goals.
Have fun: Surfing is a great way to have fun and get exercise. So relax, enjoy the waves, and don't take yourself too seriously.

I hope you enjoy surfing as much as I do. It's a great way to connect with nature, get exercise, and have fun. If you're ever in Hawaii, be sure to look me up. I'd be happy to take you surfing or give you a lesson.

Mahalo!

Follow me on Instagram for more surf photos and videos.

Riding the Waves: My Story

by Jane McDonald

4.7 out of 5